Kettner's in Soho, London

Fluid Eating's Review of Kettner's

Best for: girl-watching; excellent service; and French restaurant occasions in the West End.

Great: Champagne; English wines; French mansion smack in the middle of Soho.

You cant wear shorts when you move up to big school. That was what the 11-year old ginger beanpole was told when he baulked at the idea of donning a trousered leg for the rest of his academic life. Yet, that boy’s stubbornness to submit to scholastic sartorial requirements proved telling, and even though he was, in the end, forced to wear ankle-length attire to school, he was already on the path of “no, why should I?”; ultimately, leading to him to a career writing reviews for a London bar and restaurant guide on something magical known as the interweb.

No innocent child at The Grove School in Shropshire was forced to witness my knobbly, carrot-haired knees, and, more importantly, I had decided that I knew what was best, and that, sometimes, change is not necessarily the best course of action. Sometimes you just need to put on a brave face (Michael Jackson and Colonel Gaddafi, take note).

They don’t wear shorts at Kettner’s French restaurant in Soho, and any facelifts that have occurred in its 145-year history must surely have been quite minor. Yet Kettner’s is as defiantly traditionalist as a kilt-wearing Scotsman on a decidedly windy day. This central London bar and restaurant is wedged in the cracks of time where molecular cocktails and experiments with mousse are considered frivolous and tawdry.

Cocktails are available at Kettner’s, but only as an after-thought; and the most daringly original dish on the food menu is a smoked salmon and potato pancake, which sadly delivers less than it promises. It’s abundantly clear that Kettner’s prefers the old-fashioned route 1 tactic: Champagne, chandeliers, and coq au vin. But this is not a polemic. No no, because, on the whole, I admire Kettner’s refusal to change.

So what if the elegant tiled floors, large weathered mirrors, brass-topped bar, and cast iron marble tables are not breaking new ground? My guest and I felt as though we were living the Belle Époque, as bon vivants of the good old days. One of us noted the cornicing; the other noticed the smell of fresh lilies when walking through the full (on a Wednesday night) restaurant.

In the bar, we’d been sipping joyfully on sparkling English wine, of which there is plenty (my preference over Champagne, of which there is also plenty). The aim of these bubbles is to kick start the amorous engines and we observed evidence of this in the bar’s Skylight room. Boy, were those two getting it on! Clearly a bar for lovers.

The restaurant had a young vibe. It also looked quite dressed down, as though it hadn’t had a hell of a day in the City, which was surprising for a West End restaurant such as this. It was also very female. There was a definite scent of Stylist in the air. It sat, cheerfully drinking wine by the glass (of which there is plenty), spreading office rumours, and extolling this whole anachronistic experience; much as we did.

The noise level was rightfully set to ‘Proper French Bistro’, but I pity the poor pianist. I’m sure he was very good. Not as good as the buffalo mozzarella-pancetta starter, though. Now, that WAS good.

I’ll wager that the crispy duck confit, although a little forlorn on arrival, was so delectable that were I to have walked through the kitchen to the rear door I would have no doubt witnessed a long queue of ducks, volunteering themselves for slaughter, perhaps even aiding the process by bathing in jus and a nice DeGras Carmenere whilst waiting.

I didn’t venture to the kitchen though. I was too busy falling over the edge of a precipice into an abyss of decadent Amaretti chocolate torte. I fell and fell and fell and only regained composure when an amaretto aperitif appeared before me, a drink that was simultaneously part biscuit, part roaring fire.

To become one of the best restaurants or best bars in London these days one must follow the protocol de rigueur and adhere to one or more of the following:

- Spearhead gastronomic dominance with Jamie’s smiling face, or any other celebrity chef (see also Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay and Dinner By Heston Blumenthal)
- Hedonism reigns in a period of austerity so throw high quality meat and cocktails into the mix and stand well back (see also MeatLiquor and Hawksmoor)
- Recreate the set of Cheers with stools and a cosy bar (see also Polpo and Spuntino)
- Shout “What The Dickens!” and adopt a twisted fascination with Victorian or Georgian England (see also Powder Keg Diplomacy and Worship Street Whistling Shop)

Even though Kettner’s defies the concept of trend, and despite the odd niggle here and there - dry beef bourguinon; fairly standard creme brulee - it still provides an occasion, a Soho locale, playful bubbles (no more Michael Jackson jokes, I promise), and several hours of deferential attentiveness, recommendations, and cordiality. And it does so without breaking the bank; although there are opportunities to waft the big bills if the occasion suits. Overall, an arresting experience. Oscar Wilde was arrested here, apparently. I bet he wore shorts to big school.

Reviewed by Christian Rose-Day


Description:
November 2008: the curtain has been raised on the new Kettners...

This legendary venue was first opened by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III in 1867. It’s refurbishment plays off the frisson of its proximity to the theatres… back to when it started, so conveniently situated next to the stage doors, when it was a favourite of Edward VII, Lily Langtry and Oscar Wilde.

In addition to a Brasserie and the Champagne Bar, there is a Pudding Bar for breakfast, tea or late night treats and a club-like space 'The Apartment'.

Kettner’s has many spaces for hire, including bookable nooks in the champagne bar, private dining rooms and the original ‘cabinets particuliers’ which have been restored, plus the Salle de Fete - an ideal space for drinks and canapés for up to 200 people. (Updated 26/03/2012)

Kettner's Food & Drink Menus

Listed below are few sample food and drinks items available at Kettner's. These lists are not enhaustive, but are instead designed to give you an overview of the venue's offerings and assciated prices.

Kettner's Food menu

Kettners have a selection of mouth-watering food menus to cater for all tastes and functions. From canapés in the Champagne Bar to the French inspired Brasserie Menu and tempting desserts from the Pudding Bar - there is something for everyone.

Item	Price
Braised beef Bourguignon	£16.00
Served in a traditional copper pot
Diver Scallops, champagne risotto	£20.00
Also available as a starter - £12

Kettner's Drink menu

There are over one hundred different champagnes and champagne cocktails to try, but if you prefer there are also a wine & spirits menu.

Item	Description	Price
Gallimard Cuvée Réserve Brut NV	House Champagne.	£40.00
Louis Roederer Brut Premier	.	£68.00

Kettner's Special Offers

Kettners Has some great specail offers running , visit the website kettners dot com

Title: £18.50 for 3 Courses
Description: This offer is subject to availability and not available in conjunction with other offers. Excludes service and includes VAT.
Classification: From £20 to £30
Date: 09 May, 2011 - 01 Jul, 2015
Days: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday
Time: n/a
This is an online special offer only - Click here to book

Title: celebrate the forthcoming Queen’s Jubilee by launching a British Afternoon Tea ‘Fit For a Queen’, £18.67
Classification: Afternoon tea, Weekend, Eat out from £10 to £20, Fixed price Menu
Date: 04 May, 2012 - 25 Nov, 2012
Days: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday
Time: n/a
This is an online special offer only - Click here to book

Title: 3 Course Sunday Lunch £21.50
Description: This offer is subject to availability, not available in conjunction with other offers. Offer excludes service and includes VAT.
Classification: Eat out from £10 to £20, From £20 to £30
Date: 09 May, 2011 - 30 Sep, 2012
Days: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday
Time: n/a
This is an online special offer only - Click here to book

Title: Pre and Post Theatre Menu £16.5
Classification: Pre-theatre, Dinner, Eat out from £10 to £20, Fixed price Menu
Date: 07 May, 2012 - 29 Sep, 2012
Days: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday
Time: n/a
This is an online special offer only - Click here to book

Title: Best of British Menu: 2 courses and a glass of Gusbourne Estate English Sparkling Wine £20.12
Classification: Lunch, Dinner, From £20 to £30, Fixed price Menu
Date: 04 May, 2012 - 31 Aug, 2012
Days: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday
Time: n/a
This is an online special offer only - Click here to book

Kettner's Opening Hours

Sunday	Monday	Tuesday	Wednesday	Thursday	Friday	Saturday
12:00pm - 10:30pm	12:00pm - 12:00am	12:00pm - 12:00am	12:00pm - 12:00am	12:00pm - 1:00am	12:00pm - 1:00am	12:00pm - 1:00am

Kettner's Map

• Show me a Printable map

“Excellent service, decadent decor, a sturdy wine list (ask for recommendations - lots of wines by the glass), some great Champagnes and sparkling white wines (especially the English offerings), and a fantastic Soho location. The restaurant menu is hit and miss - recommend the duck and the amaretto-chocolate dessert - whilst the bar is a great place for lovers to get cosy over a glass of bubbles.” Rating: — The Restaurant Hunter, London (02 Feb 2012)

“A great night with friends at this famous champagne bar and restaurant. We were made to feel really special in a very relaxed and informal way in the stylish champagne bar. We then ate in the restaurant - the best beef bourgingon outside France and amazing puddings.” Rating: — Kate, London (25 Jan 2010)

“My first experience of the new improved Kettners was with my office Christmas lunch. The place was buzzing with festive spirit - clearly we weren't the only one to choose Kettners for our Christmas party! We were in a gorgeous private dining room on the first floor. Our waitress was charming and efficient even though she was clearly rushed off her feet. The food was good and the champagne even better...which might expain why I thought it was a good idea to show off my skills on the grand piano!! Can't wait to go back with friends.” Rating: — Laura, London (26 Dec 2008)

“Excellent food, atmosphere and wine.” Rating: — Laura Dixon, Betchworth (21 Apr 2008)

“Used to be stylish and good value, now gone right downhill.” Rating: — Jane Mace, London (11 Feb 2008)

“This is where my husband takes me for my Birthday, where i take my mum for a chat n champagne cocktail (or two) on the couch, where i meet my friend before a night out - in short Kettners is the treat i get treated to far too often!!” Rating: — Rebecca Marshall-Everitt, London (18 Oct 2007)

“Four old friends from various parts of the country ate here on Saturday 11th Feb. It was perfect for us. With a definate "air of the upmarket" but with a very agreeable price - we were able to wine and dine without worrying about our purse. The desserts were to die for and the Merlot was so smooth - that along with the pianist made it an evening that would certainly be repeated.” Rating: — Jacqueline, Lewes (16 Feb 2006)

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